Door Hardware Guide

Door Hardware Guide

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Table of Contents

• Section #1: Door Handing
• Section #2: Functions
• Section #3: Backset
• Section #4: Types of Door Hinges
• Section #5: Door Hinge Installation
• Section #6: Keying
• Section #7: Mortise Locks
• Section #8: Common Abbreviations & Terms

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Section 1: Door Handing 

Door Handing (RH, LH, RHR, LHR)

Understanding handing is critical for ordering locks, hinges, operators, or any prep.

Quick Rule (for swing doors): Stand on the "outside" and pull the door toward you.

• If the hinges are on your right, it’s Right Hand (RH).

• If the hinges are on your left, it’s Left Hand (LH).

Reverse handing (push side):

• If it opens away from you and hinges are on the right → Right Hand Reverse (RHR).

• If hinges are on the left → Left Hand Reverse (LHR).

Most companies follow this rule, but be sure to reference specific companies handing guide for better accuracy.

Section 2: Functions

Passage

• No locking function.

• Latch operates by lever or knob from either side.

• Used for hallways, closets, or rooms that don’t require locking.

Privacy

• Lockable from the inside with a push-button or turn button.

• Can be unlocked from outside with an emergency release (e.g., small hole or tool).

• Used for bedrooms and bathrooms.

Entry (or Entrance)

• Lockable from the outside with a key.

• Inside has a thumb turn or lever for locking/unlocking.

• Used for exterior doors.

Dummy

• Fixed handle or knob, no latch or locking.

• Used on doors where only a pull/push handle is needed (e.g., double doors).

Storeroom

• Locked from outside with a key at all times.

• Inside lever or knob does not retract latch (no unlocking from inside).

• Used for storage rooms.

Classroom

• Locked or unlocked from outside with a key.

• Inside lever always unlocks and allows free exit.

• Used for classrooms or offices requiring keyed control.

Exit (or Fire Exit)

• Free egress with no locking from inside.

• May have alarm or special hardware.

• Used for emergency exits.

Occupancy

• Similar to Privacy but can be locked from outside with a key when occupied (shown with indicators in some cases).

• Used in commercial restroom or office applications.

Storefront

• Designed for glass or storefront doors, usually cylindrical locks.

• Can be keyed and locked from outside.

Hotel/Motel (Privacy Indicator)

• Locks from inside with privacy button.

• Outside can be unlocked with a master key or emergency tool.

• May have an occupancy indicator.

Classroom Security

• Locks from outside with key.

• Allows free egress inside.

• Designed for security-sensitive environments.

Section 3: Backset

Backset is the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the bore hole (usually 2-1/8"). Standard residential backsets in the U.S. are:

• 2-3/8 inches (common for interior doors)

• 2-3/4 inches (common for exterior doors)

Some brands offer adjustable backsets that accommodate both measurements. To measure yours:

• If no hardware is installed, measure from the door edge to the bore hole center.

• If hardware is installed, measure to the center of the knob or lever plate.

Note: Incorrect backset = misaligned latch = hardware won’t install properly.

Special sizes like 2", 2-1/2", and 5" backsets are less common and require specific brands (e.g., Schlage or Kwikset).

Section 4: Types of Door Hinges

Butt Hinge (Standard Hinge)

• Most common hinge for doors.

• Two rectangular leaves with knuckles, joined by a pin.

• Comes in square or radius corners.

• Used for wood, hollow metal, and solid core doors.

• Common Sizes: 4" x 4" (residential) 4.5" x 4.5" (commercial, 1-3/4" thick doors)

Ball Bearing Hinge

• A butt hinge with ball bearings in the knuckle.

• Reduces friction and wear.

• Used on heavy or frequently used doors (commercial).

Spring Hinge

• Contains a spring to automatically close the door.

• Often used on fire-rated or self-closing doors.

• Adjustable tension.

Continuous Hinge (Piano or Geared Hinge)

• Runs the full height of the door.

• Distributes weight evenly.
  

Pivot Hinge

• Mounted at the top and bottom of the door, not the side.

• Great for heavy or wide doors, or for concealed aesthetics.

• Often used on glass or specialty wood doors.

Concealed (Invisible) Hinge

• Hidden when door is closed.

• Provides a clean, modern look.

• Requires precise mortising and alignment.

Strap Hinge

• Long decorative arms.

• Common on gates, barns, or rustic doors.

Olive Knuckle Hinge

• Decorative, often found in high-end or historic settings.

• Only the central knuckle is visible.

Double Action (Saloon) Hinge

• Allows door to swing in both directions and return to center.

• Used on café/saloon-style doors.

Hospital Tip Hinge

• A butt hinge with a rounded tip to prevent catching.

• Used in healthcare settings for safety and hygiene.

Heavy-Duty Hinge

• Oversized or reinforced hinges for high-load doors or industrial settings.

• Often include bearings or thrust washers.

Raised Barrel Hinge

• Used when door trim would obstruct a regular butt hinge.

• Moves the pivot point outward.

Common hinge radii:

• Square corner (0") – No curve. Sharp 90° corner. Clean look, but requires chisel or square router bit.

• 1/4" radius – Small curve. Common in commercial doors or where a square corner look is wanted without hand-chiseling.

• 5/8" radius – Large curve. Found on most residential prehung doors. Matches most router templates.

How to tell which you have:

• Use a ruler or speed square on the corner of the hinge.

• 1/4" radius = about like a nickel.

• 5/8" radius = about like a quarter.

• Square = flush to ruler with no curve.

Section 5: Door Hinge Installation

Proper Door Hinge Spacing (Standard)
*Please refer to manufacturers guide lines for their specific hinges this is a generalized spacing method

For three hinges on a 7'-0" door (most common setup):

• Top Hinge: 5" down from the top of the door to the top of the hinge
• Bottom Hinge: 10" up from the bottom of the door to the bottom of the hinge
• Middle Hinge: Centered between top and bottom hinges

For Two Hinges (Short Doors):

• Same as three hinges, but skip the center hinge.

For Four Hinges (Tall Doors):

• Top: 5" down
• Bottom: 10" up
• 2nd Hinge: Evenly spaced between top and middle
• 3rd Hinge: Evenly spaced between middle and bottom

Door Height & Number of Hinges Required

• Up to 60" (5'-0") 2 hinges
• 61" – 90" (5'-1" to 7'-6") 3 hinges
• 91" – 120" (7'-7" to 10'-0") 4 hinges
• Over 120" Add 1 hinge for every additional 30"

Add Additional Hinges If:

• Heavy door (solid core, lead-lined, ballistic, etc.)
• High frequency use (schools, hospitals, main entrances)
• Doors with closers or auto operators
• Wide or extra-tall doors

Section 6: Keying

Keying is how locks are set up to be operated by a key (or keys). It’s essential for organizing access and ensuring security in homes, offices, or large buildings.

Keyed vs. Non-Keyed Hardware

• Keyed: Requires a key to operate (entry locks, deadbolts, etc.).
• Non-Keyed: Operated by turn-button, push-button, or always unlocked (passage, privacy, dummy).

Keying Terms

Keyed Alike (KA):

• All locks use the same key.
  
• Example: Front door + back door = 1 key

Keyed Different (KD):

• Each lock has a unique key.
  
• Standard for most residential installs

Master Keyed (MK):

• Each lock has its own key plus a master key that opens all.
  
• Used in offices, hotels, schools

Core Types:

• Standard cylinder: Fixed core, needs disassembly to rekey
• Interchangeable Core (IC): Removable core (like Best, Schlage SFIC/FSIC) — rekeyable without removing the lock

Rekeying vs. Replacing

Rekeying: Changing pins inside the cylinder so a different key works.

• Cheaper than replacing the whole lock
• Replacing: Swapping the entire lock body/cylinder

Section 7: Mortise Locks

A mortise lock is a complete lock system that fits into a pocket (mortise) cut into the door edge. It’s more secure and durable than a cylindrical lock and often used in commercial, institutional, and premium residential settings.

Components:

• Lock Body: Main mechanism inside the door. Houses latch, deadbolt, and internal cams.

• Latchbolt: Spring-loaded bolt retracted by handle/lever.

• Deadbolt: Solid bolt operated by thumbturn or key. Provides extra security.

• Auxiliary Latch (Deadlatch): Prevents tampering when door is closed.

• Faceplate: Screwed to door edge. Often 8” x 1-1/4”.

• Trim: The handles – lever, knob, or pull (inside/outside). Sometimes includes escutcheon or rose plates.

• Spindles: Connect handle through the lock to retract the latch.

• Cylinder: Keyed part, inserted through lock body. Often removable core (IC).

• Strike Plate: Installed on frame, matches latch and bolt locations.

Advantages Of A Mortise Lock

• Handles heavy use better (office buildings, schools, hospitals).

• Higher security – latch and deadbolt are integrated.

• Multiple functions in one lock body.

• Handles thicker doors, electrified functions, multi-point locking.

Backset & Door Thickness:

• Standard backset: 2-3/4"

• Some bodies available in 2-1/2", 2", or even 3-3/4"

• Door thickness: Standard is 1-3/4", but many mortise locks offer trim kits or special escutcheons for 2-1/4" or thicker

Prep Requirements:

• Mortise pocket must be precisely cut. Size varies slightly by manufacturer but ~6" tall, 3/4" wide, 3-1/2" deep is typical.

• Not DIY friendly unless you use a mortise jig or template.

• Most use through-bolts to mount trim for strength – extra holes required in door face.

• Strike box in the frame may also need reinforcement or tabs welded on in hollow metal frames.

Cylinders & Cores:

• Standard mortise locks accept mortise cylinders (threaded)

• Many brands support interchangeable cores (IC) – small or large format
  

Trim Styles:

• Levers (ADA required in most commercial settings)

• Knobs

• Thumbturns (for privacy/deadbolt functions)

• Escutcheon plate (long rectangular plate over lock)

• Rose trim (small round plate behind handle)

• Decorative pulls (for dummy trim or entrance doors)

Fire Rating / Code Compliance:

• Must be UL listed for 20/45/60/90 min fire doors

• NFPA 80 – requires positive latching

• ADA – lever height, force, and shape compliance

• BHMA/ANSI Grade 1 is recommended for commercial use

Section 8: Common Terms & Abbreviations